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HAMISOFS GUIDE 



RESOUEOES OF THE 



PACIFIC SLOPE, 



INCLUDING THE TERRITORIES OF 



WASHINGTON AND IDAHO, 



ALSO, STATES OF 



OREGON, NEVADA AND CALIFORNIA. 



IlSr B^IVE I>_^RTS. 



BY J. M. HARRISON 



SAN FRANCISCO : 
JIT. I). Carr St Co., Printers, 539 Clay Street, 

1872. 



IISTDEX TO PAET T. 



Chehalis lliver 14 

Coal Mines 29 

Clearing Land, cost and mode of .... 26 

Cowalitz River 16 

Climate 22 

Eastern Washington 30 

Fair, Mutual Aid 20 

Fisheries 29 

General Eemarks 27 

Health 23 

Kalama 20 

Lummi Kiver 13 

Lewis Kiver Country 17 

Lumber Trade 29 

Lands, Public, how to obtain them 23 

Nascelle River 16 

Olympia 17 

Port Townsend 19 

Productions 21 

Routes and Distances 34 

Shoalwater Bay 15 

Steilacoom 18 

Seattle 19 

Tumwater 18 

Vancouver 20 

Willapah River 15 

Wallawalla Valley 32 

Yakima River 31 



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HARRISON'S GUIDE 



RESOURCES OF THE 



PACIFIC SLOPE. 



P^^RT I 



EMBHACING 



WASHINGTON TERRITORY, 



GIVING A MINUTE DESCRIPTION OF ITS LANDS AND FACILITIES 

FOR SETTLEMENT, LAND LAWS, CLIMATE, 

RESOURCES, ETC. 



BY J. M. HARRISOJSr. 



SAN KRANCISCO : 
M. n. i'lirr X- Co., I'riuters, /i:i'i Clni/ Street, 

1S72. 



HAREISON'S GUIDE 

AND 

RESOURCES OF THE PACIFIC SLOPE. 



PART I . 



WASHINGTON TERRITOEY 

Is divided^ by the Cascade range of mountains into two grand 
divisions Avliicli are generally known as Eastern and Western. 
It is bounded on the north by the Straits of Fuca and British 
Columbia; on the west by the Pacific Ocean; on the south by the 
Columbia river, following from its mouth the middle of the 
main channel to a point near Wallulu, from thence, on the forty- 
sixth parallel of latitude to Snake river, down Snake river to 
the mouth of Clearwater, and from thence due north (on the line 
joining Idaho) to the British line — being about 345 miles east 
and west, and 230 miles from north to south, embracing a total 
area of 69,994 square miles. Its present population is about 
30,000. 

That portion lying west of the Cascade mountains is mostly 
covered by a heavy forest, composed princiimlly of fir, cedar 
hemlock and spruce. Oak is found on the border of most of the 
prairies, but for mechanical purposes is considered much infe- 
rior to the Eastern oak. There are also alder, ash, maple, Cot- 
tonwood, vine maple, crab-apple, dogwood, elder, willow, hazel, 
etc., etc. 

ITS GENEKAL TOPOGRAPHY. 

In the northwestern portion of the Territory the Olympic 
range of mountains rear their lofty peaks. In the southwest 
part, bordering on the Columbia river and lying back of the 



HarrisorCs Guide and 



coast, a considerable jDortion of the country is quite rugged and 
mountainous. Lying between the two above named sections 
and the Cascade mountains (with the exception of an occasional 
spur of the Cascade range of mountains) the country is compara- 
tively level and interspersed by numerous valleys of great 
fertility. 

CLASSIFICATION OF ITS AGRICULTURAL AND GRAZING LANDS. 

First the high LANDS^are in places broken and hilly but much 
of it is table land and gently undulating . In the northern por- 
tion of the Territory these lands are generally more or less 
gravelly and granite boulders are occasionally seen, in the south- 
ern part it is mostly free of gravel. In the former, a sandy loam; 
in the latter, a clay loam. 

The timber consists principally of fir, cedar and hemlock; 
there is also vine maple, soft maple, willow, alder, elder, cherry, 
dogwood, crab-aj^ple, hazel, etc., etc. In many places these 
lands have been nearly denuded of timber by the numerous fires 
that have passed through it. 

SECONDLY THE BOTTOM LANDS. 

Composed of an alluvial soil, highly productive, yielding as- 
tonishing croj)S of vegetables, hay and grain. These bottom 
lands are mostly covered with a growth of vine maple, soft ma- 
ple, ash, alder, elder crab-aj)ple and salmon berry, with an oc- 
casional fir, spruce or cedar. Near and in vicinity of the tide 
lands considerable spruce is found. These bottoms are compar- 
atively easily cleared and are at present considered the most de- 
sirable locations for settlement. 

THIRDLY TIDE LANDS AND FLATS. 

They are usually covered with a heavy growth of grass and 
furnish large quantities of hay and pasturage for stock; much of 
them are free of timber or undergrowth. Then there is what is 
termed in this section beaver-dam land, where small streams, run- 
ning through flats, are dammed by the beaver — causing them to 
be partially overflowed. These lands, usually, have but little 
timber on them (mostly willow, hard-hack, rose-bush, crab ap- 
ple) and, when drained, are of sujjerior quality. 



Resources of the Pacific Slope. 



As we -will hereafter often refer to these several kinds of land 
before-mentioned, the reader will please bear in mind our des- 
cription of each, under its proper head. But, before proceeding 
further, we will refer to that magnificent and beautiful sheet of 
water known as Puget Sound. Vice President Colfax, in the 
Independent, very truly says: 

"No one who has not been there can realize the beauty of Pu- 
get Sound and its surroundings. One hundred miles long, but 
so full of inlets and straits that its navigable shore line measures 
1,760 miles; dotted with lovely islets, with gigantic trees almost 
to the water's edge; with safe anchorage everywhere and stretch- 
ing southward, without shoals or bars, from the Straits of Fuca 
to the capital and centre of Washington Territory, it will be a 
magnificent entrepot for the commerce of that grandest ocean of 
the world — the Pacific." 

There is, perhajos, no sheet of water in the world better situ- 
ated for commerce than that of Puget Sound. Being accessable 
at all times by the largest class of shipping, as long as a vessel 
can live at sea, she can enter this haven; no matter from what 
direotion the winds may blow, she can here find shelter. 

On its shores are magnificent forests. In its waters and coasts 
to the northward, fish abound in great variety. Vast deposits 
of coal lie adjacent and convenient for shipping. Considerable 
bodies of choice agricultural laud are of easy access. These, to- 
gether with the completion of the Northern Pacific Railroad, are 
soon destined to build up a vast trade in this part of the world. 

DESCEIPTION OF THE PRINCIPAL RIVERS EMPTYING INTO PUGET SOUND 
TOGETHER WITH THE LANDS ADJOINING, ETC. 

All the rivers of any considerable size, emptying into Puget 
Sound, take their rise in the Cascade range of mountains. The 
first of these, and near the head of the Sound, is Nisqually river. 
It takes its rise in Mt. Ranier; most of its course is through a 
mountainous region to within about twenty miles of its mouth; 
for that distance there are some bottom lands; also table land 
adjoining. Choice lands are quite limited on this stream. "We 
saw some very fine maple timber on it. There are some consid- 
erable prairies in this vicinity, and south of Olympia, of a loose, 
sandy soil, generally gravelly, and mostly used for grazing pur- 
poses. 

These prairies continue for about eight miles north of Steila- 



Harrison's Guide aiid 



coom, where we come into open highlands; mostly fir, some ce- 
dar, considerable fern and sal-lal; surface gently undulating. 
This continues for a few miles to where we come in vicinity of the 

PUYALLUP EIVER. 

Here the country begins to widen out, the mountains keeping- 
further back. The bottom lands along it are of considerable 
extent. An Indian reservation is located at its mouth which in- 
cludes about one township of land. This river is connected (by 
a small stream called the Stuck) with White river; a small por- 
tion of the latter stream passes into the Puyallup by way of the 
Stuck. Considerable beaver dam and bottom land on the Stuck. 

.WHITE KIVER 

Is a stream of considerable size which empties into Elliot Bay; 
it has a whitish color, caused by an ashy-colored substance 
brought down by it from Mt. Eanier. Below its junction with 
Black river it goes by the name of Duwamish river, and is navi- 
gable (including the Duwamish) for small steamers about forty 
miles. Thre is a large amount of bottom land on this stream 
and its tributaries. The lower part of the river is now settled. 
Up near the mountains are some prairies and open country of 
considerable extent that is yet vacant, but on account of its 
proximity to the mountains is somewhat colder and more subject 
to frost than below. 

LAKE WASHINGTON 

Is a beautiful sheet of fresh water lying back of Seattle about two 
miles. It is about twenty-five miles long and from two to four 
miles in width; its outlet is by way of Black and Duwamish rivers, 
the former connecting it with the latter stream and giving an out- 
let for barges and small boats from the lake to the sound. There 
is much valuable timber land in the vicinity of this lake; near its 
outlet are some very good farming lands (bottom land. ) Exten- 
sive coal mines are being developed near its eastern shore. The 
coal appears to be of superior quality and extensive prei")arations 
are now being made to ship it to San Francisco. Surveys have 
recently been made of this lake, near its northern end, with a 
view of connecting it (by a ship canal) with tide water. 

In traveling north from Seattle, till we reached the Snohomish 



Resources of the Pacific Slope. 9 

river, we saw but little land suitable for agricultural purposes, 
although we would occasionally see some patches of very good 
bottom and beaver lands. The highlands were more gravelly 
than usual. On approaching the Snohomish river, passed 
through some magnificent cedar timber; cedars that would girth 
from twelve to thirty feet and measure one hnndred to one hun- 
dred and fifty feet to the first limb were quite common. The fir, 
also, attained a prodigious size. 

THE SNOHOMISH KIVEB 

Makes its debouchure into Port Gardner by three different 
outlets; the tide flows up it about twenty miles, and it is naviga- 
ble for small steamers, sloops and schooners for that distance. 
A few miles above this are some rapids (the Indians pole their 
canoes over them) for a short distance and then there is good 
water again to the Snoqualmie falls, a distance of thirty miles 
above the head of tide water. The Snoqualmie falls are 270 feet 
high. Above these falls a few miles is Snoqualmie piairie, with 
good soil and a considerable settlement. Its altitude makes it 
somewhat colder; in winter snow falls from one to two feet in 
depth but does not usually lie long. The vragon road leading from 
Seattle and over the Cascade mountains to Yakima and Eastern 
Washington passes through this prairie. The Skykomish, from 
the north, and the Snoqualmie, from the east, intersect and are 
known as Snohomish river below their confluence. About the 
mouth of this stream and north of it (back of the Tulalip Indian 
reservation) are extensive tide lands and flats, also, beaver dam 
lands, that are only partially occupied. Some of the best of 
the5.e lands are at present a little difficult to get at on account of 
there being no roads into them. For some four miles n^ from 
the mouth of the river the land is low and is sometimes over- 
flowed during extreme high tides; much of it is covered with 
spruce for that distance, after which the banks are higher. .It is 
mostly settled, near its banks, for a short distance above the 
head of tide water. Snohomish City is situated on a high bank, 
some two miles below the head of tide water, and on the north 
side of the river; it contaiiiS two stores, a post-office and about 
a dozen dwelling houses. A steamer makes weekly trii:)S from 
Seattle to this place. We here examined some garden , back of 
town, and were astonished at finding such large growth on the 



10 Hmrisoii's Guide and 

highlands. We saw corn standing over eleven feet high; there 
were, also, potatoes, cabbage, beets, tomatoes, strawberry, squash 
and other vines — all of very fine growth. The bottom lands on 
the Snohomish avei-age about five miles in width; up the Sno- 
qualmie and Skykomish, they become narrower but are of con- 
siderable extent; at present very little of either is settled, the 
settlement being mostly confined to the river bank, from near its 
mouth to he head of tide water. During extreme high water 
(usually about the month of January) these bottoms are j)artially 
overflowed, but seldom longer than a day or two at a time. This 
is the case with pretty much all the larger streams piitting into 
the Sound. 

There is considerable logging done in this vicinity. After 
there is a sufficient number of logs collected in a boom they are 
towed, by steamer, to some of the mills on the Sound. 

THE STILAGUAMISH EIVEK 

Enters Port Susan near its northern end, and is a much smaller 
stream than the Snohomish, but, like it, there is a large amount 
of tide laud in the vicinity of its mouth which produces a heavy 
growth of bunch grass of very fine quality. 

Many have commenced diking, some thinking they would j)re- 
fer diking to going up further to get higher land where they 
would have to clear it off — much of this tide land being entirely 
free of brush. We were informed that although cattle throve 
well on this tide land pasture, cows did not produce the same 
amount of butter on salt water marsh that they did on fresh 
water marsh. It is believed that diking — never allowing the 
salt water on it — will remedy that matter. This stream "is navi- 
gable for considerable sized boats to a jam of huge trees lying 
across the channel about eight miles from its mouth. The tide 
flows abovit a mile above the jam. 

Coal of a good quality has been found about twelve miles from 
its mouth. The bottom lands are from one to two miles in 
width, extending up to the mountains, and are not so subject to 
overflow as on larger streams. No settlement yet above the jam. 

The country between this stream and the Snohomish, on the 
south, and Skadget, on the north, consists principally of table 
land, heavily timbered, of a yellow, sandy loam, some gravel, 
and in many places are flats of a black, vegetable loam. Be- 



Resources of the Pacific Slope. 11 

tween the Sfcilaguamish and Skadget, and about north of the 
former stream, are thousands of acres burned over; nearly all the 
large timber burned \^■p, so that it could be easily cleared. 
Briers, fern, willow and other small growth have commenced 
growing on it; soil generally good. It does one good to see (and 
still more to eat) such fine vegetables as they raise on these river 
bottoms; the potatoes so mealy, white and fine flavored, the cab- 
bage so tender; indeed, we don't see why they are not shipped 
to San Francisco so that people there would know what a really 
good potatoe tastes like. But we suppose the reason they are 
not so shipped is, the people are not here to raise them. 



THE SKADGET EIVEB 

Is the largest body of fresh water putting into the Sound. It 
takes its source in British Columbia and has a southwestern 
course, through rugged and lofty mountains, to within about 
seventy miles of its mouth. About thirty miles from its mouth. 
Baker river, a stream of considerable size enters it from the east. 
Some ten miles above its mouth is a jam, or rather two jams, 
(there being a space between them of about half a mile) consist- 
ing of a mass of immense trees lying athwart the channel which 
seem to be afloat, rising and falling with the tide. We saw trees 
thirty or forty feet in height that had grown on the top of this 
debris ! The citizens in that vicinity have petitioned the Legis- 
lature to memorialize Congress for an appropriation to remove 
the jam. The river seems to have a good depth of water for a 
long way up; the jam being removed it is believed good sized 
boats could ascend wdthout difficult}^ for about sixty miles from 
its mouth. Then, this jam causes the river to overflow daring 
high water and when removed, as it certainly soon will be, a 
large section of rich country will be opened up. Above the jam 
the river, for about twenty miles, keeps nearly parallel with, and 
from eight to twelve miles from, the coast — the intermediate 
space being mostly bottom land, fresh water marsh, tide land, 
and flats, with here and there a low butte or ridge of high land, 
like islands, above the common level. The lowest ground is 
generally free of timber; usually a good growth of grass with 
patches of willow, hard-hack, rose bush and, about the border of 
the high ground, crab apple on which great numbers of pheas- 



12 Harrisoiis Guide and 

ants were feeding; also, saw much bear sign when we were in 
that section. 

These tide lands, when not too low or cut up with sloughs, 
are very desirable. One objection to some of them is the diffi- 
culty of obtaining fresh water for stock; this objection would 
only apply to a portion of them. From the mouth of the Sno- 
homish, north to the mouth of Samish river (with the exception 
of a few miles bordering on Port Susan and north of Tulalip 
bay), these tide lands are quite extensive, usually from two to 
three miles in width, but sometimes widening out to five or six 
miles. These flats have been made by the sediment brought 
down, by the different rivers flowing into the Sound, from the 
Cascade range of mountains. During the past summer, in June 
last, a portion of the Skadget, in two or three places, ran across 
this low country, the upper channel emptying into the Saiiiish, 
which was the first instance of the kind ever known to the 
whites. The jam in the river below had, no doubt, something 
to do with it. This river, the source and meanderings of which 
are among high and lofty mountains covered with snow, is, 
during the fore part of summer, liable to freshets. We found 
the settlement confined to the bank of the river below the jam; 
two settlers had made locations eight miles above, where the 
bottoms appeared less liable to overflow. For some distance the 
river was fringed with cottonwood of very large growth; pretty 
well up are some prairies. Although there is known to be bet- 
ter locations further back, the immigrant usually takes the first 
he comes to or the easiest to get at. There being no roads in 
this section (back into the interior) makes it rather exj^ensive for 
a poor man to cut a road in, but if five or six, or more, per- 
sons join together to cut a road back it would be less burden- 
some and a choice location could be secured. The only 
way at present to ajoproach this section is by water; there are 
steamers, of various sizes, running to all the different points on 
the Sound, from Olympia, Seattle and Victoria, B. C. Some 
roads have been commenced, others projected, and as the 
country settles these conveniences will follow. There is prob- 
ably room for over a thousand families to obtain homes on and 
in vicinity of the Skadget. The next stream north, of any con- 
siderable size, is the 



Resources of the Pacific Slope. 13 



LUMMI OR NOOTSAK EIVEE, 

Has its principal outlet into Bellingham Bay, on tlie north 
side, a portion of it flowing into the Gulf of Georgia. This 
stream is also obstructed to some extent by drifts near its outlet. 
These drifts or jams we have noticed are usually about where 
the river current meets the lunar tides — causing a reflux in their 
motion — where they soon become fixed or stationary. Upon the 
obstructions at its mouth being removed this stream might be 
navigated with small boats for about thirty miles. On and in 
the vicinity of this river is another large body of choice agricul- 
tural land, extending from Bellingham Bay to the British line, 
and back east of the coast for about twenty miles, including 
about ten townships, or 230,400 acres of land, which consists of 
bottom land, tide land, beaver dam and some high land; no 
great amount of it subject to overflow. There is also less tide 
land, otherwise it is much the same as we have heretofore been 
describing. There are now about fifty families in this section, the 
most of them having come in recently. They are mostly located 
near the mouth of the Lummi and back of Semiahmoo, a small 
town situated on a fine harbor near the boundary line. 

Until recently there has been but few white families in this 
section — including the three last described rivers; the popula- 
tion heretofore being mostly of a heterogeneous character, con- 
sisting of sailors, adventurers, miners, etc., of all nationalities. 
This class of people would squat down on some of the numerous 
inlets along the Sound, build a cabin and plant a small patch of 
potatoes; logging some occasionally to get money to buy whisky; 
a large portion of their time being spent in card playing and 
carousing; many of them keeping Indian women, some raising- 
large families by them. Although most of them were of a rath- 
er rough class, we were hosj)itably treated wherever we went. 
Since white families have commenced coming in, we noticed that 
most of this class wese anxious to sell, often offering their places 
very low. For the past eighteen months a differc-nt class of peo- 
ple have been coming into this part — men of families, of indus- 
trious and temperate habits — and we may soon expect to see a 
thriving community in this section of the country. 



14 Harrison^s Guide and 



THE CHEHALIS KIVER 

Takes its rise about east of Sboalwater Bay and thirty miles 
north of the Columbia river. After iunning east about twenty 
miles, receives the Newaukum, after which it takes a northerly 
course to its confluence with Skukum Chuck. Both of these last 
named rivers come from the east and head in the foot hills of 
the Cascade mountains, between the Cowalitz and Nisqually 
rivers. A short distance below the mouth of Skukum Chuck it 
takes a westerly course to Grey's Harbor — its mouth not being- 
over forty miles in a direct course from its head source — but by 
its meanderings is over one hundred miles. This river, from its 
mouth to within a few miles of its head source, passes through a 
rich agricultural region; its bottoms are of a rich vegetable loam, 
and are usually from one to two miles in width. The high lands 
adjoining, especially on the upper part of the river, possess 
good soil, generally free of gravel. Much of these high lands 
are quite open, the timber having been burned up by the nu- 
merous fires that have passed through it. There is considerable 
grass in these openings, also, wild peas from two to four feet 
high. These wild peas are common all through this timbered 
country; cattle are very fond of them. There are also blackberry, 
thimble berry, elder, hazel and cherry. Although in places con- 
siderably broken, a large portion of it is comparatively level and 
suitable for farming, and the more broken for grazing purjDOses. 
There is a considerable amount of this kind of land on the south 
side of the Chehalis and between the Newaukum river and 
Boiseforte prairie; it is easy of access to roads and good settle- 
ments and tolerably well watered. Up the south fork of the 
Chehalis and above the Boiseforte prairie, are some bottom lands 
of considerable extent that are not settled. There are several 
natural prairies lying between Skukum Chuck and Black river, 
but they are generally gravelly and mostly used for grazing pur- 
poses. The lands lying immediately on the Chehalis are nearly 
all taken up and settled, but on its tributaries and back on the 
high lauds can be found many valuable locations and generally 
of easy access. 

The entrance to Grey's Harbor is about three-fourths of a 
mile in width; there is about eighteen feet of water on the bar. 
It is considered a safe harbor. On the borders of this harbor 



Resources of the Pacific Slope. 15 



are extensive tide flats, and south of it, to Slioalwater Bay and 
back of the coast, are extensive cranberr}^ marshes. The tide 
sets up the Chehalis to the mouth of the Satsop; good sized 
schooners can na\'ig-ate it to Montezano, about eighteen miles 
from the mouth of the harbor, and small steamers can ascend 
seventy-five miles for about eight months in the year. About 
Grey's Harbor much of the land has been bought up by specu- 
lators which retards the settlement in that direction very much. 

SHOAL WATER BAY. 

The entrance to Shoahvater Bay is eighteen miles south of 
Grey's Harbor and twenty-seven miles north of the mouth of the 
Columbia river; it is of an oblong shape, its sout'iern arm 
stretching south, parallel with the coast, to within about four 
miles of Baker's Bay on the Columbia. On the peninsula and 
western shore of the bay, about six miles from its entrance, is the 
town of Oysterville, the county seat of Pacific county. It con- 
tains two stores, two hotels, one saloon, one smith shop, one 
jewelry shop and one tannery. On the east side of the bay, and 
nearly opposite the entrance to the hirbor, is the town of Bruce- 
port, whose inhabitants are principally engaged in the oyster 
business; it contains about thirty houses, one store, one saloon 
and a hotel. The principal oyster beds lie in front of this place 
and furnish employment for a considerable number of men. 
The chief part of the oysters obtained on this coast come from 
Shoahvater Bay; several fast sailing schooners are kept con- 
stantly plying between here and San Francisco in the oyster bus- 
iness. There is considerable amount of tide land bordering on 
the bay and about the mouths of the small streams entering it. 
The country lying back, a few miles east of the Bay, is mostly 
broken and mountainous. 

THE WILLAPAH RIVER 

Is the largest and most important stream emptying into Shoal- 
water Bay. It is about thirty-five miles in length ; the tide sets 
up about fifteen miles, and is navigable for good sized schooners 
for that distance. About four miles from its mouth is a large 
lumber mill in operation. The bottom lands are taken up and 
settled for about fifteen miles above its mouth, and extend about 
fifteen miles further up including several small prairies of excel- 



16 Harrison's Guide and 

lent laud; much of tliese bottom lands would be very easy 
cleared. We saw some of the finest cherry trees, and the most 
of them, here, that we have ever seen on this coast— many of 
them measuring from twelve to eighteen inches in diameter — 
also very tall and slender. On the south fork of Willapah there 
is a considerable amount of bottom land; also, between it and 
main Willapah, some high lands that have had the timber burnt 
off — all open for settlement. 

THE NASCELLE KIVER 

Enters Shoalwater Bay near its southern end. This stream is 
about as long as the Willaj)ah, but does not have so many trib- 
utaries as the latter stream. This river heads back of Cement- 
ville, on the Columbia river, and is navigable for about fifteen 
miles from its mouth. Its bottoms are of a rich black loam with 
some prairie land. A few families settled on this stream the past 
summer and have o^^ened a road to Cementville, on the Colum- 
bia river. There is probably room on this stream and its vicin- 
ity for one hundred families to find good locations. 

THE COWALITZ RIVER 

Is the chief river flowing into the Columbia from Western 
Washington. Its length is about one hundred miles, and it is a 
bold, rapid stream to within a fev*^ miles of its confluence with 
the Columbia. Steamboats ascend it regularly to Monticello, 
some three miles from its mouth and canoes navigate it to Cow- 
alitz i^rairie, some forty miles above. There is an extensive bot- 
tom, reaching from the Columbia for about ten miles, up to 
where the Cowalitz emerges from the highland, which is covered 
with fine farms; the lower portion of it is subject to overflow 
during the annual June freshets of the Columbia, and freshets 
occasionally occur on the Cowalitz in the winter months, doing 
some damage on the low bottoms. The bottoms and some of 
the high lands on the lower part of the river, especially on the 
east side, are quite sandy. These low bottopi lands are well 
adapted for dairying j)urposes, the grass growing green all sum- 
mer. Here is a belt of countr}^ ranging from thirty to forty 
miles in width, extending from the Columbia river to within a 
few miles of Olympia, on the Sound. On approaching within 
fifteen or twenty miles of Olympia considerable gravel is found, 



Resources of the Pacific Slope. 17 

especially on the prairies. Althougli having- a diversified sur- 
face fully three-fourths of it is well adapted for agricultural pur- 
poses; the high lands are of a clay loam; the bottom lands, along 
the numerous water courses passing through it, are of a black, 
vegetable loam. These highlands are generally open, only a 
small portion being heavily timbered. There is a considerable 
amount of beaver dam land in the northern end of this belt; also 
considerable grass and pea-vine all through it. It is well wat- 
ered. There is now something over half of this section vacant 
(including the odd sections granted to the N. P. Eailroad Co.) 
and subject to settlement. This belt, together with the spurs or 
off-shoots putting out from it in different directions, includes the 
largest body of agricultural land to be found in Western Wash- 
ington. Some of the best of these lands lie west of the stage 
road leading from Pumphreys to Claquato, and all will, no 
doubt, settle up rapidly as the railroad progresses through it. 

There is also a large extent of good agricultural land border- 
ing on and north of the Columbia river, including Lewis river, 
Salmon creek and Washougal river, extending up the Columbia 
from Lewis river to the Cascades of the Columbia, being quite 
narrow for a few miles below the Cascades but widening out as 
you approach Lewis river where it is twenty-five or thirty miles 
in width. The lands in this section are much the same as those 
last described and are principally settled; it being- the most con- 
venient and the first the immigrant came to has caused it to be 
settled more rapidly. 



Taken from the Pacific Tribune : This city, the capital of 
Washington Territory, is built on Budd's Inlet, the head of 
steamboat navigation on Puget Sound. Its j^opulation has ma- 
terially increased in the past year, and now exceeds sixteen hun- 
dred. It contains about three hundred and fifty dwelling houses, 
four churches, one telegraph station, one post office, one public 
and three private schools, three hotels, a Town Hall, a Masonic 
Lodge, a Good Templars' and an Odd Fellows' Hall, one public 
library and reading room, a jail, a bank and a bath house. Here 
the Governor, the Territorial Secretary, the Surveyor General, 
the Register and Receiver of the Land Ofiice and the Superin- 
tendent of Indian Affairs have their offices. The city contains 
four printing offices and prints one daily and four weekly papers. 

There are also two wharves and one 'brickyard. In the trades 



18 



Harrison's Guide and 



there are two plumbers, a dozen bricklayers, a small regiment of 
builders and carpenters, several house and sign painters, and five 
wall pajperers. It also contains the following stores and shops: 



2 hardware, 

9 groceries, 

1 tea and spices, 

1 milliner, 

5 saloons, 

4 tailors, 

1 furrier, 

1 steam saw mill, 

1 lumber yard, 

2 cattle dealers, 
4 blacksmiths, 

2 wagon makers, 
1 boat builder, 

4 green grocers, 

5 laundries, 

1 plaster medallion maker. 



6 dry goods, 

2 bakeries, 

3 boots and shoes, 
2 druggists, 

2 cabinet makers, 

3 liarbers, 

2 watchmakers, 

2 paint shops, 

3 meat markets, 
2 livery stables, 

1 stove and tin shop, 

1 gti.nsmith, 

2 nurserymen, 

1 cooper shop, 

2 cornice moulders, 

1 foundiy and machine shop. 



The professions are represented by three clergymen, three 
physicinas, a legion of lawyers, one dentist, three architects, and 
several engineers and draughtsmen. 

Among ovir active institutions are a Fire Engine Company, a 
Hook and Ladder Company and a Base Ball Club. 

We have no mendicants and no need of an almshouse. Our 
physicians live on the good prices paid them by the grateful pa- 
rents of our rapidly increasing youth. If they depended on at- 
tending the sick for subsistence, they would starve. Our drug- 
gists do well on dyestufFs (not stuff to keep from dying) and 
knicknacks, or they would have to shut up shop. We have a 
healthy, haj^py, progressive town, with plenty of work and play 
for everybody. 

TUMWATEK* 

Is a thriving little place of about two hundred and fifty in- 
habitants, situated on the Deschutes wheie the river has a fall of 
eighty-five feet in three hundred yards, just above where it emp- 
ties into the head of Budd's Inlet, and two miles from Olympia. 
There is here a large saw and planing mill, a grist mill, a water 
pipe and furniture manufactory. It is well situated for manu- 
facturing purposes. , 

STEILACOOM 

Is the county seat of Pierce county and is eligibly situated on 
the Sound, just south of the "Narrows," and contains about 
three hundred and fifty inhabitants. The Penitentiary and In- 



*An Indian name, signifying Falling Waters. 



Resources of the Pacific Slope. 19 

sane Asylum are located here. There are some prairies just 
back of this place, generally gravelly, with but a small portion 
of them suitable for farming purposes. 

POKT TOWNSEND 

Is situated on a spacious harbor near the outlet of Admir- 
ality Inlet into the Straits of Fuca. The Custom House and 
Marine Hosi^ital for Puget Sound District are located here. It 
is also the county seat of Jefferson county and contains about 
five hundred inhabitants. 

SEATTLE 

Is situated on a gentle sloj^e of high land fronting on Elliot's 
Bay and contains abcut sixteen hundred inhabitants. The Ter- 
ritorial University is located here and is one of the finest build- 
ings in the Territory. There are also four churches, one large 
public school building, several hotels, a tannery, two drug 
stores, quite a number of dry goods, grocery and provision 
stores — two or three of which do a wholesale business, (having 
lost our notes in regard to this thriving place we cannot state the 
exact number); also two newspaper offices, the Weekly Intelli- 
gencer and Seattle Times. There are many fine dwellings, with 
orchards, gardens and walks laid off in a tasteful manner, adding 
greatly to the beauty of the place. A large lumber mill is in 
successful operation here. Probably over half the lumber mills 
on the Sound are situated within a radius of thirty miles of this 
place for which it is a kind of central or distributing point. Sev- 
eral steamers are kept constantly plying between this point and 
the different mills and logging camps on the Sound. South and 
east of Seattle is found, on the Duwamish, White and Cedar 
rivers, a large section of agricultural lands, most of it of easy 
access both by land and water, Avhich adds greatly to the trade of 
this place. The Lake Washington coal mines, a few miles back, 
are now being developed, and a tramway laid over which the 
coal is to be transported and shipped at this place, which will 
add still more to the wealth of this locality. 

Taking it altogether, Seattle presented the most business-like 
aspect of any town we saw on the Sound. 



20 Harrison's Guide and 



VANCOUVER, 

The county seat of Clark county, is situated on the north bank 
of the Columbia river, one hundred and ten miles from its mouth, 
and contains about one thousand inhabitants. Large size, ocean 
vessels can ascend the river without difficulty to this place. A 
large section of good agricultural land lies adjacent and it bids 
fair to soon become a place of considerable importance. 

The Government barracks and military headquarters of the 
Department of the Columbia are situated just outside of town. 
The officers' quarters and other buildings, with fine fences and 
nicely laid-off walks, together with the beautiful surrounding 
scenery, give the place a picturesque appearance. 

KALAMA 

Contains about five hundred inhabitants, and owes its chief 
importance in its being the present terminus of the N. P. Rail- 
road on the Columbia river. The N. P. Eailroad Company have 
a saw mill and machine shop here. There is, also, a newspaper 
office. The town is situated on the Columbia, six miles above 
the mouth of the Cowalitz river, on a narrow bottom about two 
hundred yards wide, back of which a bluff rises about one hun- 
dred and fifty feet high. 

MUTUAL AID FAIR AND REMARKS ON THE PRODUCTIONS OF WESTERN 

WASHINGTON. 

It happened to be our good fortune to be j)i"esent at the Mutu- 
al Aid Fair, held at Olympia on the Gth and 7th of October, 
1^71. Considering the short notice given and its being the first 
of the kind held in the Territory, it was a decided success and a 
credit to the getters-up. We take the following from our notes 
of the principal articles exhibited : Corn in the stalk, twelve to 
thirteen feet high; seven varieties of wheat; five of oats; two of 
millet; one of buckwheat; one of barley; two of corn; one of 
hops and several varieties of grass seed. Stalks of wheat and 
oats six feet long with very heavy heads. Potatoes, onions, 
turnips, cabbage, carrots and beets, in great variety and of the 
best quality. Also tomatoes, squashes, melons, cucumbers, 
beans and peas in the pod, all of fine growth. In the fruit line 
there were apples in great variety that coidd hardly be excelled 



JResources of the Pacific Slope. 21 

(saw some that measured fifteen inches in circumference), pears 
in great variety, also plums, cranberrys, grapes and peaches. 
These last two articles, although not very well adapted for this 
climate, were of very fair quality. Some apples were exhibited 
in very good condition that had been picked the year before. 
We saw some butter of superior quality, although we noticed 
some that was not thoroughly worked. Saw mutton that would 
tempt a Falstaf. There were also honey, a great variety of pre- 
served fruits, flour and bread as white as the driven snow; coal, 
and limestone from Cypress Island. A number of articles of the 
mechanical trades were on exhibition. The ladies, also, were 
Avell represented in their handiwork. There were also flowers 
and shrubbery in great profusion. Our space does not permit 
going into details of all the interesting things we saw on exhibi- 
tion as we otherwise would like to do. 

The samples of grain on exhibition were a subject of remark 
(especially by new comers) for its plumpness, large kernel and 
fine appearance — all acknowledging that they never saw anything 
equal to it in the Atlantic States. One sample of wheat was 
from a field of twenty-six acres, yielding twelve hundred bushels, 
and raised, with ordinary cultivation, by Mr. Smith on the Che- 
halis river. These bottom lands u.sually yield from thirty to 
forty bushels of wheat, and from forty to sixty of oats, to the 
acre and very often a great deal more. Along near the coast 
w^here it is more foggy the farmer is often troubled to get it 
proj^erly curt d for threshing, but out ten or twenty miles from 
the coast they are seldom troubled in that way. 

A large portion of the high lands are well adapted for the pro- 
duction of about all kinds of small grain but will not yield as 
largely as the bottom lands. Potatoes thrive and yield exceed- 
ingly well. They are, also, of superior flavor, being dry and 
meal}' . On the bottom lands they usually yield from two hun- 
dred to four hundred bushels, and sometimes six or seven hun- 
dred bushels, to the acre. To one who has never seen them 
taken out of the ground this seems almost incredible, but the 
soil and climate combined are just what is wanted to bring this 
esculent to its highest perfection. Corn is not raised much, 
only in gardens for table use, the summers being rather cool for 
it to mature in season. 

Fruit, such as apples, pears, plums, cherries, gooseberries, 
2 



22 Harrison's Guide and 

currants and strawberries, thrive exceedingly well. There are 
also a gieat variet}'' of wild berries; among the best and most 
plentiful, and to be found almost everywhere, is the blackberry 
or dewberr3^ There are also the raspberry, several kinds of 
whortleberries, cranberry, sailalberry, thimbleberry, salmon- 
berry and elderberry. 

Timothy, clover, and all the grasses adapted to this climate, 
thrive and yield largely. This is emphatically a grass coiintrj' — 
the climate and everything else favoring it. The farmers gen- 
eraly report cutting from two and a half to three and a half tons 
of timothy to the acre. After taking off their hay they visually 
pasture their meadows for some time, there being generally suf- 
ficient moisture to keep the grass growing after the hay is taken 
off. 

CLIMATE. 

We believe it is generally understood that the climate is much 
milder on the Pacific than the Atlantic coast in the same lati- 
tude. Washington Territory, although situated within the 46th 
and 49th degrees, north latitude, has, during the winter season, 
about the same temperature as Norfolk, Virginia, ten degrees 
further south. Meteorological observations taken at Fort 
Stilacoom in latitude 47 deg. 7 min. north, for a series of years 
give the following result: Mean of iour years: January, 38 
deg. 1 min.; February, 40 deg. 7 min.; March, 41 deg. 8 min.; 
April, 48 deg. 6 min. ; May, 56 deg. 6 min. ; June, 61 deg. 1 min. ; 
July, 64 deg. 9 min. ; August, 64 deg. min. ; Sej)tember, 56 
deg. 9 min. ; October, 52 deg. 6 min. ; November, 46 deg. 2 min. ; 
December 38 deg. 3 min. There is seldom any extreme heat 
during the summer months. According to the above meteoro- 
logical observations the average temperature of the three summer 
months was 63 deg. min. 

The following, from the United States Coast Surve}^, taken at 
different points on the Sound, will give a still more definite idea 
of the meteorological phenomena of this section : Three spring 
months of 1869: clear, 59; foggy, 5; rainy, 29; amount of rain- 
fall, 3.75G. Summer: light showers — rain guage not in use; 
highest temperature for June, 94 deg.; lowest, 42 deg. 3 min. 
Three fall months: clear, 33; foggy, 8; rainy, 38; amount rain- 
fall, 14.123; mean temperature, 55 deg. Three winter months, 



Besources of the Pacific Slope. 23 

1869-70: clear, 19; fo^^gy, 21; rainy, 49; amount of rainfall, 
19.752; mean temperature, 42 cleg-. Three spring months: 
amount, of rainfall, 6.058; snow, three clays in March. June: 
clear, 21; rainy, 9; amount of rainfall, 0.431; mean temperature, 
62 deg. 

The water courses seldom freeze over and in ordinary winters 
wild flowers in full bloom can be found at any time. Once in 
four or five years there is an unusual cold winter, the snow lying 
ou the ground for three or four weeks, and in one instance — the 
winter of 1862 — the ground was covered with snow for about 
two months. 

HEALTH, 

The general health of the country is good and will compare 
favorably with any other portion of the United States. Fever 
and ague are unknown, except to a limited extent on the Colum- 
bia river and lower Yakima, and even there, when it occurs, is 
generally of a very mild type yielding very readily to the j^roj^er 
remedies. We believe a humid atmosphere is not considered fa- 
vorable for those of a consumptive tendency, and for that reason 
the climate of western Washington might be detrimental to 
such, but the eastern portion of this Territory, being a high, dry 
climate, is considered highly favorable for those having weak 
lungs. Some cases have come under our own observation of 
persons, far gone, who recovered, beyond their most sanguine 
expectations, by a change to that section. 

THE PUBLIC LANDS AND HOW TO OBTAIN THEM. 

Persons desiring to get Government land should select their 
locality, go to the district office and get plats made out of a few 
townships, then with these go out and get some settler to help 
you look out a piece to suit you. You then go to the office and 
make your entiy, after which in homestead cases, you are al- 
lowed six months in which to establish your home upon the land 
and no one can interfere with you during that time. Of the 
homestead entries made, many are abandoned, the entries can- 
celed and the land again entered by others. To get an entry 
canceled it is only necessary to make proof, after filing the prop- 
er affidavit and giving thirty days' notice, of six months' aban- 
donment, so that every person who holds a claim under the 



24- Harrison's Guide and 

Homestead Act must occupy it in good faith as a home. Upon 
double minimum laud, or land within railroad limits, every per- 
son being the head of a family, or single and over the age of 21 
years (this applies to female as well as male persons) are entitled 
to pre-empt one quarter-section (IGO acres) at the Government 
price of $2.50 per acre, proof and payment to be made within 
one year from the date of settlejnent. The j^roof required is the 
testimony of one witness that the applicant has had a bona fide 
residence on the laud for six months, and has cultivated and im- 
proved the same. There is also required an affidavit of the ap- 
plicant that he is not the owner of 320 acres of land in any State 
or Territory of the United States, that he is not pre-empting the 
land for the purpose of speculation, or for the benefit of any per- 
son except himself, and that he has not heretofore had the bene- 
fit of the pre-emption law. 

The above is true with regard to all pre-emptions except that 
the applicant will pay the jDrice at which the land applied for is 
held by the Government, whether $1.25 per acre, minimum, or 
$2.50 per acre, double minimum, and except further, where the 
land has not been offered at public sale. The time in which 
payment is required to be made is thirty-three months from the 
date of settlement. The same conditions as to age, etc., apply 
in the case of homestead as in j^re-emption entries, and any such 
person can enter as a homestead not to exceed one quarter-sec- 
tion of $1. 25 per acre land by paying $10 fees and H commis- 
sions at the time of entry. Upon $2.50 per acre land any jierson 
who served in the war of 1861, for ninety days, and was honor- 
ably discharged, can take one quarter-section by the payment of 
$10 fees and $8 commissions; all others can take but 80 acres 
each by payment of $10 fees and $1 commissions. Persons who 
have resided six months upon their homesteads and while resid- 
ing thereon can, if they desire, by making such proof as would 
be recjuired in pre-emption cases, prove up and pay for the land 
at the Government price. After the five years' residence upon a 
homestead the claimant is'^llowed two years in which he may 
ajDpear at the district office, with two witnesses, and jorove up 
and perfect his title, upon which he receives a certificate which 
must be surrendered to the district office upon the issuance 
and delivery of the patent — the patent usually not being trans- 
mitted to the district office from "Washington under about one 



Resources of the Pacific Slope. 25 

year from the date of proving up. "When the claimant makes 
his final proof he pays the same commissions as he paid when he 
made his entry, the law prescribing that one-half the commis- 
sions shall be paid at the time of making the entry and one-half 
at the time of proving up, but practically they are all paid at the 
time of making entry. 

It might be advisable, especially for any one with very limited 
means to rent a piece of land iu the vicinity of where they ex- 
pect to settle, or as near as is practicable, raise a crop, and in 
the meantime look around a little and make a location. By this 
means they would have something to commence with and not 
have to pay out much money; besides, they would be more able, 
after a time, to judge of what they wanted. 

'mTHDJAWAL OF LAND. 

On the 19th of October, 1870, the odd sections , for twenty 
miles on each side of the surve^^ed line of the Northern ^Pacific 
.Railroad were withdrawn from market by orders from the De- 
partment at Washington, in accordance with the provisions of 
the charter requiring such action of the Government upon the 
location of the route by the Company. This withdrawal extends 
from the Columbia river to the head of the Sound, and thence 
parallel with and about eight miles distant from the Sound to a 
point near Seattle. 

The Northern Pacific Raih'oad Company, having learned that 
a large number of settlers desired to take up lands on the line o* 
the road in advance of the surveys (as in locating before the 
land was surveyed they would not know which they were on, 
Government or Eailroad land), passed the following resolution 
which has been ordered published: 

liesolced, That any person may settle upon and improve lands 
of the Northern Pacific Railroad Company before they are 
brought into market, and as soon as they are appraised and ready 
for sale may have the first privilege of purchasing them, upon 
the regular terms of sale, at the regular price of such lands in 
such localities, which prices will be fixed without reference to 
the improvements. 

There is no restriction respecting the price at which the Com- 
pany may sell their laud, until the expiration of five years after 
the completion of the road. After that date the Company must 



26 Harrison'' s Guide and 

sell for $2.50 per acre. The iDoliey of tlie Railroad Company, in 
conformity to their interests, will be to encourage settlement; 
and hence there can be no doubt but that every facility will be 
afforded for distributing" the land at such a j)rice and upon such 
terms as will insure a sj^eedy settlement. 

COST AND MODE OF CLEARING LAND. 

For the benefit of those who have had little or no experience 
in clearing land we will here describe the plan usually adopted 
in the timbered lands of the Pacific Slope and especially of this 
region. The immigrant usually selects a faA^orable spot to com- 
mence, where there is a small prairie, or natural opening, or at 
least where there is but little large timber. After which, he 
clears off a space whereon to erect his cabin, usually near some 
stream or small branch, where there is some bottom or bench 
land and where there is no great amount of large timber, being 
mostly vine maple, some ash and soft maple, with an occasional 
fir, cedar or spruce. 

These bottoms are generally cleared by slashing all but the 
large growth, felling them all one way as much as possible. The 
best time to do this is through the months of June or July, when 
the sap is at its highest. After it has lain one or two months, 
about August or September, fire is set to it in different places. 
Where there is scattering small brush it should be piled upon 
the larger growth. Care must be taken before fire is set that 
there is no brush or other inflammable substance near the dwell- 
ing or out-buildings. Some cut the vine maple off about six 
feet from the ground, take a yoke of cattle and chain hitch on to 
the io]i of these stubs and "snake" them out. The soil being 
loose and the main roots near the top of the ground, it is not 
difficult, having an axe close at hand to cut any root that may 
hold fast. "We saw at one place on the Chehalis river two 
patches of excellent wheat, the ground for which had never been 
ploughed. The proprietor stated that after "snaking" out the 
grubs — the ground being mellow — and sowing the wheat, he 
took a 3'oke of cattle and dragged a large brush over it to smooth 
it down and cover the wheat. One of the joatches (a few acres) 
referred to was volunteer, or the second year without sowing, 
and was then headed out nicely and promised a good crop. 

The large trees are usually felled in this wise: Take a long 



Besources of the Pacific Slope. '^7 

shanked auger, bore two holes one above the other at an angle 
so they will meet some distance inside, after which some pitch 
fagots are lit and introduced into the upper hole, th3 flame 
causing a suction of air from the lower hole — acting something 
like a blow pipe. That portion of the tree inside of the sap, be- 
ing more or less of a pitchy nature, burns with great rapidity 
and in a short time appears and roars like a huge furnace and 
can often be heard at a considerable distance. The outside, or 
sap, being watery without any pitch not burning while green, 
leaves the tree a shell. After the inside of the tree is pretty 
well burned through, the sap is chipped through on the side of 
the tree on which it is desired to fall, when it comes down with 
a terrible crash that can often be heard for miles around. 

In one place we saw a spruce about fourteen feet in diameter 
that a settler had burned down in this manner. It continued to 
burn for about fifty feet, leaving a shell for that length. He 
stated that he was going to partition off a portion of it for a root 
house and use the balance for a stable. The usual price for 
slashing is from ten to twelve dollars per acre, cutting all down 
(except the large growth) and piling it up ready for burning. 

The best and cheapest team a man can have in this section is 
a good yoke of cattle. They can make their own living, and it 
costs but little to rig them for work, besides they are the best 
adapted for the kind of work usually done on a new place. 

GENEKAL EEMAEKS. 

We trust the description herein given will give the reader a 
pretty fair idea of the country. There is much good land on 
about all the tributaries of the rivers heretofore described that 
our time and space would not permit to particularize. And we 
give it as our candid opinion that there is no part of the world 
that offers greater inducements than does this Territory for the 
immigrant. To be sure there are some drawbacks. In the 
Western Division the best lands have to be cleared, roads have 
to be made, and for a portion of the year it rains more than we 
could desire. But, on the other hand, the grass growing nearly 
the whole year round , stock requires but little attention. You 
can here secure laud that will certainly soon be of great value, 
and you are sure of good crops and a good market convenient for 



28 Harvison's Guide and 



all you can raise. And if you do have a superabundance of brush 
and timber, what you want for fencing* and building purposes is 
convenient for use, which is worth a good deal. If you are 
handy to navigation much of this surjjlus timber can be worked to 
good account in furnishing the mills with logs and getting out 
shijDs' knees, making shingles and getting out staves; after which 
the surplus ma}^ be burned w\y. There is also the best of water 
here, and, as a consequence, good health prevails. In our trav- 
els in this Territory we generally found the people in a thriving 
condition; many that had almost nothing when they arrived in 
the country, in two or three years were quite comfortably situated, 
besides having secured a homestead. In these new settlements 
the people are generally hospitable, and the immigrant is pretty 
certain to receive a warm welcome, especially if he is disposed to 
try and help himself. They all have had to labor under diffi- 
culties, at some time or another, and know how to sympathise 
with others laboring under like circumstances. Although we 
had visited Washington Terrifcorj'' many years ago, and were quite 
familiar with a considerable j^ortion of it, until recently, upon a 
close and extensive examination of her domain, we were not pre- 
pared to believe that her agricultural lands were of any great 
extent. Such has heretofore been the general opinion, and until 
recently, to a great extent, such has been our own idea on the 
subject. 

Till' Avestern division of this Territory' being principally tim- 
bered and brushy, makes it difficult and not altogether pleasant 
(for one not a woodsman) to explore. The tourist and others 
usually follow the stage road from Monticello to Olympia, on 
the Sound; from there he takes a steamer for different points on 
the Sound, hardJy ever putting his feet on shore. On his rounds 
he sees some magnificent forests and some large lumber mills, 
also a fine sheet of water, with much grand scenery. Passing 
through some prairies south of Olympia, he hears the coach 
wheels grating on the gravel. Seeing very liltle agricultural 
land (or very little land ol any kind) on his route, he falls in with 
the popular idea that this is not an agricultural country; but 
now these lands have been sufficiently tested, in different locali- 
ties, to prove beyond a doubt that they are highly productive, 
to which we shall refer in another part, tt is very true that the 
immigrant will not here find farms already made, or if already 



Besources of the Pacific Slope. 29 

made, he maj- expect to pay some oue for making them. Neither 
did the early settlers of Ohio or Indiana find farms made to 
hand, but had to expend much more labor to bring their lands 
uuder cultivation than it takes for the same amount of land in a 
larqe portion of this Territory. 

Among the chief resources of this Territory are the extensive 
forests bordering upon her coasts and navigable streams. Al- 
though a large portion of these forests in the interior has been 
consumed by the numerous fires that have passed through them, 
those lying bordering on the coast, on account of the prevailing 
dampness, are comparatively uninjured. The lumber trade, 
although as yet in its iufancy, is now about 150,000,000 feet an- 
nually, employing about fifty coasting vessels, besides many 
large vessels sailing direct to foreign ports. This section also 
offers great facilities for ship-building; it is now about univers- 
ally conceded that the yellow fir can hardly be excelled for the 
pur[)ose of ship-building. Nine vessels were built on the Sound 
last year, one of which was of a thousand tons burthen . Coal 
has been found at various points from the Columbia River to 
Beilingham Bay; but no extensive preparations have been made 
to work the mines, except at Lake Washington and Beilingham 
Bay. The latter mine is now being worked nine hundred feet 
under the waters of the Sound. It has the capacity to furnish, 
on board of vessels at their wharf, one hundred thousand tons 
of coal annually. It has now been worked about thirteen years. 
Extensive prepartions have lately been made to develop the Lake 
Washington coal mines; the coal is said to be of superior qualit3% 
From the numerous deposits of coal recently found in this sec- 
tion, it bids fair to soon become the Pennsylvania of the Pacific. 

DAIRYING. 

Although the facilities for dairying are excellent, there being 
green feed nearly the year round, and the products of the dairy 
ready sale at a good price, an abundance of good water, the 
climate and all being favorable — for all that, this jirofitable busi- 
ness has so far been comparatively neglected in these parts. 

FISHERIES. 

The fisheries of the northwest coast have already attracted 
considerable attention, and are soon destined to become one of 



30 Harrison's Guide and 



the leading- interests of this section; Paget Sound, with its 
numerous inlets and harbors, with an abundance of material for 
the building and equipment of fishing vessels, is the near- 
est available territory of the United States favorable for the 
curing of codfish. Several vessels have already been built here 
for that business, engaging in the coasting trade until the cod- 
fishing season arrives, when they depart for the cod-fisheries of 
the north, generally making two trips in one season, and usually 
with great success. The salmon fisheries on the Columbia are 
carried on in an extensive manner, to which we shall refer 
more particalarly in our remarks on the Columbia Kiver. The 
harbors, bays and creeks are literally alive with fish at certain 
times of the year, and can be caught by any one and in almost 
anj' manner, affording an abundance of cheaj) and wholesome 
food for the inhabitants. 

WASHINGTON TERRITOEY EAST OF THE CASCADE MOUNTAINS. 

The traveller on passing eastwardly over the summit of the 
Cascade Mountains, is struck with the change of vegetation, 
climate, etc. He finds, on descending a few miles, a diiferent 
variety of shrubbery and forest— the tamarack, the long-leafed, 
and white pine taking the place of the stately fir and cedar. The 
forests are generally more open, there being but little under- 
growth; the surface covered with a luxuriant growth of grass, and 
during the summer months i^ossess a very inviting appearance. 
He also finds the earth more dry, these mountains proving an 
effectual barrier to the prevailing rains of western AVashington. 
On pursuing his journey still further, and on emerging out of 
the timbered mountain one grand panorama is presented to his 
view — a long succession of hills and dales, all covered with the 
most nutritious grass. The course of the numerous rivulets fall- 
ing from the mountains can be plainly traced by a fringe of Cot- 
tonwood or willow on their banks; and on raising his eyes to 
the horizon, can trace the blue line of some distant mountain 
which seems to gradually fade out of sight. 

This section is also marked by a comparatively small amount 
of wet weather, rain seldom occurring during the summer 
months; in the fall, either in September or October, there is 
usually a spell of wet weather, lasting from one to two weeks, 
after which the mornings become somewhat frosty. From the 



Resources of tlie Pacific Slope. 31 



1st of November till the 20th of March, snow falls occasionally, 
but seldom lies on the ground more than two or three days at a 
time. We feel safe in saying, that for the past twenty-five years 
the ground has not been covered with snow on an average more 
than one month of each year. "When the wind is from the east 
it is cold, but when from the south or west (which in winter is 
the prevailing wind), mild and pleasant. The Indians on the 
Columbia River call the former " Wallawalla wind," and the 
latter "Chinnook wind;" Wallawalla being east, and Chinnook 
west, near the coast, they say ' ' Wallawalla wind no good, bias 
cold, very cold; but Chinnook wind, bias close, bias warm, very 
good, very warm." The winter, including January and February, 
of 18G2, was unusually cold in this section; the snow fell from 
one to three feet deep, accorcling to locality, and laid on the 
ground for over two months; but very few whites were in this 
part of the country at that time. There being no provision 
made to feed the stock, a large portion of it perished. This sec- 
tion, in connection with eastern Oregon and portions of Idaho, 
being one vast ocean of grass, offers great inducements for those 
wishing to engage in the stock business. We know parties there 
who have had from two hundred to five hundred head of stock 
for the past eight years, who in all that time never provided any 
food for them, the only expense being to brand them and employ 
one or two herders to see that they do not wander off to far. 
But this plan of making no provender for stock we do not con- 
sider a safe one, although generally three winters out of four, 
stock running at large will not require any. 

This section possesses a remarkably salubrious atmosphere, 
and is often resorted to by those of a consumptive tendency; and 
people who have spent a considerable portion of their lives in 
this section are remarkable for their robustness and vigor. This 
is also well illustrated in the superiority of the natives of this 
region, in their athletic and majestic forms. 

THE YAKIMA RIVER 

Takes its rise in the Cascade Mountains, about east of Seattle, 
and has an easterly course of about one hundred and fifty miles 
to the Columbia River, emptying into the Columbia a few miles 
above the mouth of Snake River. The lower part of the river is 



32 Harrison's Guide and 

rather sandy and barren; but a short distance above the big rap- 
ids the country becomes very productive. The south side, 
from the big rapids to the Attanum River, includes an Indian 
Reservation, and also the best lands of this section. Some of 
the Indians cultivate the soil and rtiise considerable quantities of 
grain and vegetables, also raise some stock. There is a large 
amount of hay land on this reserve. Mr. Wilber, their agent, is 
generally well liked; he preaches for them on Sundays, and goes 
out and assists them in their farming operations through the 
week, setting them a practical exam^ile calculated to do them 
good. Through the instrumentality of Mrs. Wilber, many of 
the Indian women have learned to knit, sew, and perform other 
household duties with commendable skill. 

From the mouth of the Attanum to the foot of the mountains 
"the country along the river is very productive, and on the high- 
lands the grass extends as far as the eye can reach. Just above 
the Natchez River the high-lauds close in to the river for a few 
miles; above this it is called Kittetash Valley, and below, Yakima 
Valley. Kittetash Valley has the best appearance of the two, 
but its altitude and close proximity to the mountains cause it to 
be more cold in winter, snow sometimes falling two feet in 
dex)th, and lying on the ground from one to three months. There 
is a considerable amount of cottonwood and some birch along 
this stream, to within about tAventy miles of its mouth. This 
stream is settled, more or less, its whole length. 

WALLAWALLA VALLEY. 

This is a beautiful valley, lying at the base of the Blue Moun- 
tains, and having a gentle descent noi'tli to the Columbia River. 
Interspersed through it are numerous small rivulets, in places 
fringed with alder, balm and birch, giving it a very picturesque 
appearance. This section is well adapted to the production of 
wheat, barley, corn and oats, of which large quantities are raised. 
The fruits, such as apples, peaches, pears, plums, cherries, 
gooseberries and currants, are raised in great abundance and of 
the best quality. Irrigation is seldom practiced or required, ex- 
cept fcr late vegetables. The principal valley is thickly settled 
by an intelligent, industrious and thriving population, many of 
whom are largely engaged in the stock business, for which the 
surrounding country is well adapted. On ascending the higher 



Resources of the Pacific Slope. 



lands, in leaving Wallawalla Valley, we had a very fine view of 
the city and valley. The skirts of timber along the many 
small brooks putting out of the foothills, dotted by numerous 
farm-houses, orchards and fields, combined in presenting a 
grand scene. On ascending the high or table land we found it 
to be very good soil, the surface generally rolling, but consid- 
erable portions of it quite level, and all covered with a good 
growth of bunch grass, capable of sustaining thousands of cattle 
or other stock. The grass on the low land was (this was in the 
middle of September) dried up, but as we approached the moun- 
tains it became quite green and the ground moist. We account 
for this by the snow lying on the ground later near the moun- 
tains, but more particularly on account of occasional showers 
that follow the mountain ranges, but seldom extend into the low 
country. This is the case throughout all this country. On the 
low lands, with the exception of the creek or river bottoms, that 
are kept moist by the flow of water contiguous to them, the 
grass usually dries up by the first of July, but still retains its 
nutritious and fattening qualities. The numerous streams flow- 
ing from the Blue Mountains all have more or less rich valley 
land lying along their course, that is highly productive, and 
within a radius of forty miles of Wallawalla, is now mostly 
settled, although on the high-lands and near the foothills of the 
Blue Mountains there are many eligible locations yet to be found 
The inhabitants procure their lumber and best timber from the 
Blue Mountains, there being generally an easy grade down into 
the valley. They often use trail-wagons — two or three wagons 
coupled together to one team— hauling very large loads. 

WALLAWALLA CITY 

Is a town of considerable importance, being a central depot 
for the surrounding country, and also carrying on a considerable 
trade with the mining regions of Montana and Idaho. It is not 
uncommon in the streets to see a train of fifty or a hundred 
mules heavily loaded, a la old California style, for some distant 
mining camp. 

A railroad is now about to be built, leading from this city to 
Wallulu, on the Columbia River, and will eventually connect 
with the Northern Pacific Railroad. 



34 Harrisons Guide and 



ROUTES . 

There are tliree principal routes of approach to this Territory. 
One by steamer from San Francisco to Portland; thence by river 
steamer to Monticello; and from Monticello by stage, eighty-five 
miles, to Olympia. Another by steamer twice a month from 
San Francisco to Victoria, B. C. ; from Victoria b}' steamer twice 
a week to Olympia and all points on the Sound. And also, leav- 
ii.g the Central Pacific Railroad at Kelton, then by stage to 
Wallawalla, via Roise City, Idaho. This would be the preferable 
route for eastern Washington, with much interesting scenery 
along the way. Families going this route might do well to pur- 
chase a team before leaving the railroad; thej^ could travel 
cheaper that way, and have their team after they got through. 
The fare from San Francisco to Olympia, via Portland by steamer, 
is, from San Francisco to Portland, $15 steerage, and $30 in the 
cabin; thence to Monticello, $1; thence by stage to Olympia, 
$10. Time, six days. The fare to Victoria at present is the 
same as to Portland; and from Victoria to Olympia, by steamer, 
$5; intermediate points less. The fare by stage from Kelton, on 
Central Pacific Railroad, to Wallawalla, is $75; time, four days; 
distance, 450 miles. 



TABLE OF DISTANCES. 

From Olympia'soutli by Stage-road : 

To first crossing of the Chehalis 30 miles. 

To Claqnato. . . 7 " 

To McDoBulcl's 12 " 

To Pumphries 14 " 

To Jackson's, on Arkansas Creek 10 " 

To Monticello, on the Cowalitz 12 " 

From Olymia to Monticello So " 

This last named place has daily communication (by steamer) with Portland, 
Oregon; distance, 50 miles. 

From Olympia, north, by semi-weekly steamers : 

To Steilacoom 20 miles. 

To Tacoma 30 " 

To Seattle 50 " 

To Port Madison 60 " 

To Port Gamble 85 " 

To Port Ludlow 92 " 

To Port Townsend 105 " 

To Victoria, B. C 140 



Besources of (he Pacific Slope. 35 

From Olympia to Seattle, by land: 

" " Steilacoom 22 miles. 

" " Puyalhip 16 " 

" " White Kiver 16 " 

Black Kiver Ferry 10 " 

Seattle 12 " 

Total from Olympia to Seattle 76 

From Seattle to Waliawalla, eastward: 

'• " Clymer's, ou Black Kiver. 11 miles. 

" " Squak 9 " 

" " Siioqualmie River 18 '• 

Summit 23 " 

" " Lake Kitclielas 5 " 

Thorp's 24 " 

Wallula 130 " 

Waliawalla 32 " 

Total from Seattle to Waliawalla 252 

A wagon-road on this route over the Cascade Mountains is passable from 
June till October. 



The first section of the Northern Pacific Railroad, of twenty- 
five miles, commencing at Kalama, on the Columbia River, is 
now about finished, and within one year will probably reach 
Puget Sound. 

East of Waliawalla, on the line of the Northern Pacific Rail- 
road to the Coeur d'Alene Mountains, is a large and extensive 
tract of country that for grazing purposes cannot be excelled, 
and much of it is well adapted for farming purposes; water is 
scarce in places, but a considerable portion of it is well watered; 
very little timber, except on the mountains. 

Now that there is a certainty of the Northern Pacific Railroad 
being shortly built, this section is attracting considerable atten- 
tion, and a number of settlers have located in that region the 
past summer. The climate is much the same as that of Walla- 
walla — -perhaps a l.ttle colder in portions of it. For a more full 
description of this eastern section of the country and its re- 
sources, see our description of the Columbia and eastern 
Oregon, 



HARRISON'S GUIDE, 

/'^IVES a description of all the principal bodies of the 
^^Public Lands in the Pacific States and Territories, their 
advantages and disadvantages, and facilities for settlement; 
together with a general description of the country, its 
health, climate, resources; its rivers, mountains, lakes and 
basins. Also, the peculiarities of each different section, 
embracing in all a large amount of practical and reliable 
information that can be obtained through no other source. 

It is no collection of unreliable newspaper articles, but 
has been obtained at great expense of time, labor and money, 
by personal examination, from notes taken on the spot. 

The work has been arranged with a view to give the largest 
amount of information in the briefest possible space. 

The Parts will be issued as fast as they can be prepared 
for the press — due notice of which will be given . 

Part I— Embracing Washington Territory, 

Is no7V Ready for Delivery. 

X'fMCE FIF-T^V^ OENTS. 

And will be mailed, postage paid, to any part of the United 
States, on receipt of price. 

Address: J. M. HARBISON, 

P. O. Box 1791,"^an Francisco, Cal . 

Or call personally at Tl7 Fourth street, first door south of 
the City Market, from 10 to 12 M., or from 2 to 4 P.M., 
where all information in regard to the country may be 
obtained. 

Having taken note of many business openings in our 
travels the past season, those wishing to engage in any kind 
of business would do well to cive us a call. 




I 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

III! II I II |Mll||i||lii II 1] Hi I iri iM 



